When you’re planning your trip to Paris, chances are you’re not prioritizing the 20e arrondissement - and we understand why. It’s out of the way, there aren’t many big tourist attractions… why bother?
If you’re here for more than a few days, or you’ve been to Paris before, we’re here to tell you: It’s worth it. While there might not be massive churches or enticing museums, the 20e is where you can come to truly feel like a local. Relatively untouched by tourism so far, it feels the way the 11e once did. Young families hang out in the park, and side streets stay fairly quiet throughout the night. You can find incredible food, great nighttime vibes, and some of Paris’ most epic green spaces. It’s worth a visit (but perhaps grab an electric bike, if you choose to cycle up). Let’s get into it.
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
The Dancing Goat
Don’t miss the granola bowl at the Dancing Goat - it’s the perfect way to start your day exploring the 20e. We love the Dancing Goat for so many reasons, but are particularly obsessed with the high ceilings and the natural light. Quelle ambiance! It’s the perfect place for a journal or to read more of that book you brought on vacation but have yet to flip open!
Plural Coffee Shop
To be completely honest, whenever we’re in the 20e, we tend to gravitate towards the Dancing Goat, but we realize that you might not be in that neighborhood, so we’re making another recommendation that should caffeinate you well and good: Plural Coffee Shop. Located up near Park de Bellville, grab your specialty coffee to go and wander through the nearby flower shops and out for one of the best views across the city in the park.
Food
Amagat
Inspired by the cuisine of Northern Spain, this cave à manger has small plates and a wine list to die for. Don’t miss their croquetas or their calamari, and you’ll want to be sure to reserve in advance. Half of the fun is finding this place, tucked back away among artist ateliers and dance studios and against the biggest cemetery in the city. It’s why their sister restaurant is named:
Caché
Equally enticing is Amagat’s sister and neighbor restaurant Caché. Aptly named because both restaurants sit down a hidden street in the 20e, Caché serves up seasonal seafood, so fresh you’ll forget you’re landlocked in a big city. And don’t skimp on the cocktails here. While Amagat is where we go for wine, Caché is where we go to mix.
Maybe it’s unfair to recommend two restaurants in the same group, but Amagat and Caché are that good. That said, we have several other recommendations for nibbles in the 20e, so be sure to grab our Guide and check them out!
Drinks
The Bellevilloise - Bar Ephemere
You’ll want to hit up the Bellevilloise if you’re looking for a fun place for a drink and perhaps a concert. With a banging program and an outside terrace, the Bellevilloise is a welcoming place where artists come to hang, and where there’s a full roster of local artists. The drinks aren’t anything to write home about, but you can wander just a few blocks north to the 19e if you’re looking for that (Combat, Kissproof…).
Best Places to Hang Out
Père-Lachaise
Père-Lachaise is easily the most famous cemetery in the city; great for a long walk, and even better if you’ve brought your camera because the tombstones and mausoleums catch the light as it scatters through the leafy canopy the tree-lined boulevards feel more like a park and less like a cemetery. Seek out your favorite artists who may be buried there, but be sure to check the closing time so you don’t get locked in!
Parc de Belleville
Parc de Belleville is a lovely little park with gorgeous colorful flowers in the summer. The lower part is nice for a rest or a picnic, but we’re here for the distant view of the Eiffel Tower from across the city. The lookout isn’t a particularly nice place to linger, but it's great for a walk through, and even better to stake out for the 14th of July fireworks display.
That’s a wrap on not only this arrondissement, but our whole 20 in 20 series, 2025 edition. We hope you’ve enjoyed these blogs, our corresponding posts on our instagram, and even Jay’s personal takes on his instagram. Thank you for sticking with us, and if you’re looking for more information on Paris in My Pocket is and our founder, Jay Swanson, you can learn more here!