The 19e arrondissement of Paris. Maybe you’ve heard of it, and maybe you’ve been wondering if it’s worth a visit. To us, it absolutely is, and for many reasons. The 19e doesn’t try to be something it’s not, and it doesn’t apologize for what it is. It’s a multicultural, lived-in corner of Paris with a strong sense of community, and it boasts some of the city’s best green spaces, like Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and Parc de la Villette.
It shares some traits with neighboring arrondissements, but each has its own flavor. The 10e and 11e, for example, have become hubs for hipster foodies and bar-hoppers, especially around Canal Saint-Martin and Oberkampf. The 20e, while similarly local in feel, has increasingly attracted more affluent young families, particularly near Gambetta and Père Lachaise. But the 19e remains refreshingly unpolished, while still boasting some great local joints.
In the 19e we have everything from gorgeous parks to local dives to craft beer and electric boats (though be careful mixing those last two). We’ll give you our best recs and let you decide but if you’re here for a few days, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Let’s jump straight to the food and drink, as there are no major monuments up in the 19e, per se. Sure, you could catch a movie at the MK2 cinema on the canal, but why waste your time observing when you can be indulging? The 19e is becoming more and more of a foodie neighborhood: here are a few of our favorites, but grab our guide for even more.
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Mardi
Just around the corner from the square-dominating church, Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville, you’ll find Mardi, a delightful coffee shop. They offer great coffee, cozy vibes, and a really nice selection of pastries (and a banging cinnamon bun!). The owners also bring their dog in to hang out, more often than not, in case you need some cuddles to start your day.
Noa
Noa does coffee, hot or iced. They do matcha. They do cookies, toasties, and breakfast, oh my! A great option for a small but hearty breakfast and a solid cup of coffee. If you like clean lines, design, and cool collabs, check them out. They’ve only been around a year, but they’ll probably be here for the long run.
Food
Bastringue
Le Bastringue is a local favorite, a typical French corner restaurant. If you were thinking of getting a roast to share, this is the place to do it. You’ll quickly feel enveloped by the French vibe and might even forget you’re in Paris for a minute; country vibes, good energy, and hearty & delicious food.
Cheval d’Or
Recently given a new lease on life with a new team, the Cheval d’Or has been a staple in Paris since 1987. They offer a couple different options of tasting menus of East Asian cuisine, in our experience one of the best tasting menus around. Plus, they have a wonderfully curated wine list, a bright interior, and the kind of vibe that will tempt you into kicking back and staying all night.
Drinks
Paname Brewing Co.
Located right on the water of the Bassin de la Vilette sits Paname Brewing Co. They’re a local brewer with the best view of any taphouse in the city. Their terrasse is the perfect choice for a balmy evening and their indoor area has huge windows so you can watch the sun set and see the Eiffel Tower come to life in the distance. They serve decent food, but we have other places we’d recommend for that first.
Atalante
L’Atalante is another taphouse also on the canal up past Paname that always has a wide selection of delicious beer, both local and beyond. It’s also surrounded by some fantastic street art and sits on another section of the canal that makes it perfect for people watching (a Parisian’s favorite pastime). The crowd is fun, and the service is sometimes great and sometimes grumpy. Don’t skip on the pub food here if you’re in for something greasy.
Best Places to Hang Out
Buttes Chaumont
Buttes Chaumont was once a quarry where nothing would grow. Napoleon III transformed it into one of Paris’ most unique parks, both for its elevation gain and its more “English” stylings. It feels more natural, has a lot of green space you can enjoy, as well as many fun pathways to follow that surprise you when they become bridges, or even massive underground waterfalls. Unfortunately the central dais and its temple are currently closed for repair, but it still makes for a great photo either from up high against the skyline, or down below from the lake.
Interested in an exclusive audio guide walking tour of local Paris, including Buttes Chaumont? Grab our Guide+ which will give you access to Jay’s walk of the 19e, accessible through Le Walk (and currently only available for iOS).
On the Canal - Bassin de la Villette (boats!)
Did you know you can rent a boat in Paris? Without a license? In the Bassin de la Vilette, you can do just that. There, sit the docks to small electric boats available for rent through the company Marine d’eau Douce. Rent for a small or medium sized group, take turns driving, and explore the canal. Don’t forget your picnic! This is a great way to pass the time in the summer or, if you’re like Jay, lose your favorite pair of sunglasses while parking the boat.
As you can tell, the 19e is a fantastic spot to hang out in Paris. It’s a great mix of up and coming food & culture, while still packed to the brim with old dives and surprising restaurants. People will tell you to use caution along the canal at night, but if you’re out and about with friends and keep your wits about you, you’ll be fine - just like in the rest of Paris, or in other big cities. In general, we always recommend you stay aware while traveling, but not to let the fearmongering of the online world get you down.
Be sure to circle back here tomorrow for the final installment of our 20 in 20 series, for what to do in the 20e arrondissement of Paris. Can’t wait? Grab our Guide now for hundreds of recommendations to the whole city, as well as tons of articles on how to prepare for your trip, what to buy, and what to expect.