When you think of the 18e, your mind might go straight to Montmartre - and you wouldn’t be wrong to think that. The hill of Montmartre takes up much of this arrondissement, but not all of it. Around Montmartre you have some seriously up-and-coming bar and restaurant areas where you can find quite a range of tasty treats. On the actual hill, there are tons of nooks and crannies to discover - from hidden parks to various surprise statues to tucked away coffee shops. We’re going to take you through some of our recommendations for Montmartre and the 18e in general.
That said, we have so many more recommendations for this area of town plus a full 1-day itinerary to a Day in Montmartre in our Guide+. So if you want to truly maximize your time not only here, but in Paris in general, be sure to grab the Guide+. Oh, and did we mention its access for LIFE?
What to See
Sacré-Coeur
It’s one of Paris’ most famous churches towering over one of the best views of the city. You cannot miss Sacré-Cœur when you come to Paris and you shouldn’t miss taking a peak inside either. Even in the height of summer, when the queue is the most daunting, you’ll be surprised how quickly you’ll get in. The church is free and so the line is just for a quick security check, you’ll be through it in no time. Once you’ve had a look, head around the back to the secret park behind Sacré-Cœur…read on to find out more.
Musée de Montmartre
Paris is full of museums but this might just be one of our underrated favorites. Full of curiosities (and a tea-room that seems to always be closed?), if you want to gaze back into the Montmartre of yestercentury then this is the place to go. Did you know that Montmartre used to be a village on the outskirts of Paris? Did you know that the Sacré-Cœur was built to mask the horrors committed during the Paris Commune? Have you heard of Suzanne Valadon? All these stories and more are told in this quaint and artistic museum.
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Clove
Hand-crafted is the essence of Clove coffee. Not only do they serve some of the best coffee in town (they’ve tested the water quality of different sources!), they even make their own ceramics! Excellence is well and truly on the menu and, if you can manage a little climb up rue Chappe, then reward yourself with a coffee at Clove.
Simple
Good coffee, no fuss. That’s the motto at Simple, alongside some delicious food and a shop that reflects the community spirit of the 18e. Aside from the specialty coffee, you’ll find eggs and grilled cheese on the lunch menu and a killer pavlova for dessert. They definitely win the most unique interior design award for the coffee scene to date.
Food
Le Rousseau
As we mentioned above, when visiting the 18e, it’s worth exploring off the hill into the lesser known parts of the arrondissement. In doing so you’ll find places like Le Rousseau which boasts some of the best burgers in town. This place has a no fuss approach with each burger reflecting a few key ingredients like smoky pyrenean goats cheese in their Basque burger or classic pepper sauce and pungent morbier in their house favorite The Black Pepper.
Sobremesa
We can’t guarantee that we’ll know in advance what you’re going to eat when you come here, but we are willing to wager that it will be one of the best meals of your trip regardless. Sobremesa is a wine bar that hosts an ever-changing rotation of Southeast Asian chefs, combining two of our favorite things into one fantastic evening. Jay was introduced through @_ladygoogoo_ when she was in residence here, and every successive trip has been a delicious surprise. Book in advance as this has totally popped off. There is never a bad night at Sobremesa.
Drinks
Le Bascule
Nothing says Paris like a bistro. Locals could eat in places like these 3 times a week and la Bascule is a great dive into Parisian restaurant culture. Excellent beers, wine, and tapas make for a fun happy hour (sharing cheese and charcuterie boards are a must) and you’ll get a great burger or classic steak to rival any viral restaurants you may have heard about.
Le Boucan
We love a dive bar - sometimes you just need somewhere to get your night started. Le Boucan is just the place to kick off a night of revels in the 18e as the owners know how to treat their clients well and its rare that this place isn’t absolutely rammed. Nothing pretentious, just decent beers, wines, and some classic cocktails. From here, swing over to Pigalle to keep the party going, or up the hill to take in the view. For all our recommendations, from the high to the low, check out our Guide!
Astoria
Want a classy-yet-unpretentious neighborhood cocktail bar vibe? Astoria has some great signature drinks, friendly service, and its location keeps it an out-of-the-way spot so it rarely has tourists wandering through. Come for a nice long conversation, warm up before your night at Sobremesa, or finish a romantic evening with a little more privacy in their quiet back room.
Best Places to Hang Out
Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet
Like we said, everyone should visit Sacré-Cœur at least once in their lives, but most people don’t know what to do after they have. There’s the view of the city, the dog park just down to the side… suddenly you’re swept up in the crowds that are heading around to the left of the church, and then taking that first left-hand turn through a bunch of cheesy souvenir shops and before you know it you’re in Place du Tertre, the artist square.
There’s nothing wrong with this, the artist square is fun to visit for a minute, but it means you just missed one of the best, most unknown views of Sacré-Cœur in the city: Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet (formerly Parc de la Turlure). This little park is tiered into the hill behind the Basilica, with gorgeous arbors lining the main pathway, a playground for kids below, and plenty of benches and grassy lawns for a picnic. Get away from the crowds, recover for a second and, even if you’re not up for a long break here, use it to plan your next move before getting sucked into the swarm of tourists.
The 18e has so much to offer and, whatever you choose please, Please, PLEASE don’t get sucked into the tourist traps around the Place du Tertre. We promise you, it’s hard to have a bad meal in Paris, but not impossible, and it would be a crime to get caught in one. Enjoy your wander of this little village in Paris, and come back tomorrow to check out the 19e.